With the Bistro’s kitchen as their backdrop, wellington enthusiasts are encouraged to learn about the ingredients’ origins (like how the lambsfoot and sorrel eaten by the cows on the chef’s family farm add a lightness to the beef) and the core foundations of success to the dish (all fat must be removed from the sirloin). The three-course meal and English wine pairings – sourced from the Nutbourne Vineyards (part of the Gladwin estate) and surrounding wineries – cement this as more than just a pass-the-test class: whilst the wellingtons are in the oven, attendees are treated to mushroom and truffle eclairs, tangy oysters with shallots, melt-in-the-mouth scallops and the chef’s delightful Fridge Raider Raviolo, this time incorporating trout and pollock. Sticking to his philosophy that “we must understand our food”, Gladwin shares his kitchen principles throughout the evening. “A fridge is a moving thing,” he reflects. “You have to utilise everything in the building.”

Post wellington comes a delightfully fluffy chocolate mousse topped with rose and blackberry, which suitably rounds off this flavour punch of a meal, and soothes those facing any culinary mishaps. Guests are sure to leave tipsy, full and slightly more skilled, all thanks to Gladwin’s humorous and nurturing advice. A far cry from a scene in The Bear.

Hattie Birchinall
Photos: Courtesy of Sussex British Bistro

To book a private Beef Wellington masterclass at Sussex British Bistro, 63-64 Frith Street, London W1D 3JW, call 020 3923 7770 or visit here.

Hani is of Syrian and Lebanese origin, and intends to draw on this heritage to bring traditional fare to the London food scene, celebrating the flavours and culinary techniques of the region while elevating them for the modern palate. Accompanying the food is a cocktail menu, designed in collaboration with Mr Lyan Studio, that crafts innovative options using typical Middle Eastern ingredients such as arak, hibiscus and tahini.

Upon arrival, the first thing that stands out is the thoughtful decor – a tasteful nod to Syrian craftsmanship and the country’s famous carpentry. Particularly notable are the dining tables, which are beautifully inlaid with mother of pearl foliage motifs. Soft pastel florals decorate the ceilings, contrasting with brightly coloured lampshades and warm tones across the wicker chairs and wood panelled walls. In the corner, there is an open kitchen, which we are told houses a tanoor oven and a minqala grill for fire-kissed meats.

With high expectations, we order plenty from the mezze section, as one must when dining Levantine style, breaking bread over dishes including a take on Hummus Bil Lahme, a silky smooth hummus layered with tender slivers of spiced short rib. The Badenjan, a smoky aubergine dip, takes the place of the typical baba ghanoush, upgraded with a blend of charred and puréed miso aubergine that adds umami depth and texture with added walnuts. Dips are accompanied by a basket filled with puffy rounds of Arabic bread and zaatar topped mana’ish flatbreads.

The Fattoush is welcomingly crisp with its signature fried bread, punchy fresh herbs and lots of citrus, although the promised twist of pomelo is not especially noticeable. There is a Batata Harra, with a slick of garlicky toum, that is particularly moreish, playing with the sensory contrast between soft potato cubes and crunchy potato sticks for a memorable take on a classic. It perfectly compliments the fish dishes we’ve ordered, including the Sea Bass Tahini and the Prawns Hamsa, the latter plump and immersed in oil fragrant with coriander. Both are are expertly cooked, with the former showcasing the skill of the grill chefs.

Traditional plates such as the Moghrabieh Short Rib appealingly showcase ingredients less familiar to the average patron. Here, pasta pearls are enveloped in a spice medley and accompanied by unctuous beef and shallot stew. For dessert, sticky date cake Tamur-O-Harda provides a memorable finish, with an interesting and playful combination of flavours, piled together for a multi-dimensional result that is sweet because of the dates, fragrant with anise and earthy from the tahini.

Together with some cracking cocktails, the dishes on Hani’s menu celebrate and sing with the tastes of the Levant that are so beloved. This is definitely a place to add to the list of solid Eastern Mediterannean restaurants in the capital, promising clever and innovative use of flavours, textures and ingredient combinations backed by expert cooking.

Rasha Barazi

To book a table at Noreen, 28-32 St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1NU, call 020 3006 0010 or visit the restaurant’s website here.

Beyond the open kitchen, on the other side of the counter, chef-owner Paul Durande is in sight, and you can almost bet on his presence on each visit. Here, he is kneading the dough, now preparing the desserts components, now plating the starters. The restaurant is a project he launched with his wife, Charlotte Durande, after pursuing a career in the kitchen by chance. Following a stint in Edinburgh and then Moor Hall, the growing family back home in Liverpool cleared the path for a more personal venture. Indeed, Manifest’s laid-back environment, the welcoming staff, and the food offering (well crafted without being indulgent or overly pretentious) easily explain why the restaurant is so beloved by locals, and it certainly merits a detour from the city centre for visitors.

The à la carte menu entails a good variety of options catering for a satisfying lunch or dinner, whether choosing only small plates to divide between two diners, going for large ones to share, or opting for a trio sequence each. Anything vegetable-led, from the seasonally changing tart or the confit leeks, is bold and comforting at the same time, akin to a brightly coloured sweater made of hypersoft wool on a grey winter day.

The Chef’s Choice menu features none of the dishes from the main list, making it more of a standalone experience. The seven-course journey, intended to unfold in under three hours, is a creative tour de force with well-paced portions. It begins with Poached Oyster in pineapple weed and chilli oil, accompanied by delightfully crunchy and flavoursome salt and vinegar crisps – yes, real potato crisps, a treat! The wine pairing, mostly based on small-scale producers with a focus on less explored regions, leads with a glass of 2022 Slovakian chardonnay Charlotte 1075, from Strekov. It’s followed by a more classic bottle from the Loire Valley, a 2023 October Blanc, Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame. The subtle notes of this refreshing chenin blanc are a perfect match for the tender core of the XL Scallop served with bits and pieces of varying textures and temperatures, apple ice, hazelnut sauce and chargrilled cauliflower floret.

The Pumpkin Purée, Jerusalem Artichoke Consommé and King Oyster Mushroom is a warming pleasure: earthy broth with a creamy base and little exquisite whole mushrooms. Liverpudlian scouse culture is reimagined here as small lamb skewers, so soft they fall apart at the touch of a fork,  balanced by the peppery notes of Patelin de Tablas Blanc 2011, a Californian blend of five white Rhône varieties from Tablas Creek. Following it is a tasty chunk of venison sourced from Lancashire and prepared simply, plated with elderberry, girolles and beetroot sauce, leaving it up to the diner to explore the balance of sweet and juicy elements.

The pre-dessert is an incredible ginger punch, a true palate cleanser, the wild plum adding a dash of sweetness. The final pudding offers a luscious conclusion: Rice Pudding with Blackberry, Almond and Sorrel Granita, so enjoyable that it almost calls for a second serving. The accompanying MR 2022, a Spanish muscat of Alexandria by Molino Real, made from grapes hand-harvested from Málaga North Side and sun-dried in the pasero (generally used for raisins), is an intriguing discovery.

Does Manifest fit in the so-called relaxed dining category? For those who seek clear labels, that’s the group that would best suit. For those open to broader definitions, with menus like these, the restaurant appears to be one of those that always have a trick up their sleeve: an open space where everything is visible and easygoing, yet food is a creative matter approached with professional finesse and resourcefulness – just like a stroll along the harbour, breathing in adventure and unexpected encounters, yet all without ever leaving the mainland.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at Manifest, 4a Watkinson Street, Baltic Triangle, Liverpool L1 0AG, visit the restaurant’s website here.

Held for the first time on Sunday 27^th July, Sambabrunch proved to be a roaring success. The restaurant was fully booked and buzzing with celebrations: birthdays, anniversaries and family gatherings filled every table. Despite the packed venue, the staff were both professional and warmly attentive, ensuring that every guest felt welcome. The entertainment, however, stood out and set the tone for an unforgettable experience. Every 15 to 30 minutes, exuberant samba dancers took over the floor, accompanied by a live saxophonist and drummer. Their energy was infectious, with dancers even joining guests at their tables to keep spirits high and the party atmosphere alive. 

Brunch began with a choice of welcome cocktails, each one reflecting a different cultural influence: a premium Margarita, a classic Caipirinha and a creative twist on a Bloody Mary with sake, wasabi, shiso and ponzu. All were beautifully presented and the Caipirinha had expert balance and flavour.

Soon after, a selection of four starter plates arrived, taking over the entire table: salted edamame, crispy yellowtail taquitos with avocado and miso, warm pão de queijo (baked cheese balls) and truffle butter, and guacamole alongside crispy tortilla chips. Each dish highlighted a cultural element as expected, but the standout was the pão de queijo, which was unforgettable in both taste and texture.

Following the starters, it was hard to imagine more food coming, but the mains delivered generous variety. The Mushroom Tobanyaki, a vegetarian option, was rich and satisfying. Then came the sushi and sashimi course: the Buranchi Roll (smoked salmon, shrimp tempura, cream cheese and capers) was light and refreshing, while the sashimi selection of salmon, yellowtail and tuna maintained a delicate flavour profile. The Spicy Tuna Roll, however, stole the show as the piquant mayo gave a welcome punch of heat.

No meal would be complete without dessert, and Sushisamba did not disappoint. A Japanese Apple Crumble, which was served with soy toffee sauce, coconut crumble and chocolate-cookie ice cream, offered a rich yet balanced finale. Groups of more than two were treated to all three dessert options, including a Chocolate Banana Cake with maple butter, plantain chips and vanilla rum ice cream, and a Limonero comprised of a lemon sphere with nectarine-apricot mousse, olive oil, passionfruit jelly and bergamot meringue. Each dessert offered a creative nod to the cultures that inspire the brand.

From beginning to end, the popular dining concept became an immersive, high-energy brunch experience. Pulling off a flawless, sold-out event on its debut is no small feat, yet the staff made it seem effortless – and at £65 per person, the value is undeniable. One thing is clear: Sushisamba knows how to keep its guests well-fed and entertained, and this is only the beginning for Sambabrunch.

Taryn Crowley
Photos: Courtesy of Sushisamba

Sambabrunch is available at Sushisamba’s Covent Garden restaurant on the last Sunday of each month. For further information or to book a table at Sushisamba, 35 The Market, London WC2E 8RF, call 020 3053 0000 or visit the restaurant’s website here.

Behind black-clad windows – with only the shape of the 8 logo allowing any light in – the venue has a discreet appearance, almost to the point you could miss the entrance if you were not looking for it, creating a sort of divider between the chaos of Liverpool and the refined experience indoors. A little way in and guests are introduced to the lounge and the dark industrial style that is predominant throughout the space. Modernist metallic artworks bring splashes of colour that alternate with vein-like golden designs running across the walls and furniture. Rock and pop music plays in the background, with the volume set just right to allow for conversation. The drinks list is compact: one page for the wines, mostly French and Italian labels, and one page for all other beverages. Given the cool bar-like atmosphere, one could perhaps expect a more extensive cocktail selection.

The drinks menu seems designed to gently accompany the food without stealing its thunder, and we find this balancing approach to run throughout the meal. From the cocktails section, we choose to begin our lunch with an Old Fashion and Saturn, a lip-smacking slightly zesty gin and tonic. Without a sound, the chef emerges from the counter to the left of our table and presents us with preliminary snacks: a tuna tostada dressed with matcha sauce plays on crunchy contrasts, while a smooth mushroom tartlet renders gratifying hints of undergrowth. It quickly becomes clear that the team is deeply committed to sourcing local produce and delivering sophisticated, locally-inspired cuisine.

After a short while we are led downstairs, where two counters, each with eight stools arranged communal-style, await. The chefs cook the dishes in front of us, and it’s not just the plating: burners, pots and pans are within arm’s reach, with moderate sounds of sizzling and squishing audible as we chat with the kitchen staff and our companions. The tasting menu kicks off with a refreshing Chawanmushi with Isle of Wight tomatoes, intense both in their dried and fresh treatment, and trout roe. A hand-dived extra-large Orkney scallop follows, simply seared on just one side in a sea of butter and then laid in a pond of herby pesto and shellfish curry-infused sauce. Each meaty bite is addictive. The bread course is served with goat’s milk whipped cream from the Lake District; it spreads more evenly than butter and tastes like a silky cream. Again hailing from Scotland is the protagonist of the next course, the Sea Trout Confit deliciously marries an exquisite sauce of courgette, comprising drops of apple and whey derived from the preparation of the whipped cream. This is a simple yet scrumptious dish that wonderfully exemplifies Restaurant 8’s concept. The pairing with a malolactically fermented Domaine de la Bégude Bandol Rosé 2022 enhances the nuances, bringing forth strawberry and cranberry notes.

The pinot noir from Bourgogne that follows has a fuller body and a stronger presence of spices that blend perfectly with the next course, a juicy Iberico Presa. Following it is a palate cleanser that is far from the usual: Pineapple is a beautiful flower of crackling pineapple with a jelly heart of passionfruit and creamy coconut. We are then presented with Milk, an incredible assembly of the different variations of the white liquid: crisp, foamy, solid, cold and room-temperature. Like a wafting cloud on a sunny day, this tantalising dessert is a delight.

As a standard cheese board wouldn’t fit with the style of the menu, the team has prepared their own version, finishing the journey in gooey style. The Stilton, a sticky toffee and bread based dessert with walnut, is topped by a scoop of creamy cheese and butterscotch sauce. Back upstairs in the lounge, we enjoy a final sweet treat before heading out.

This summer, Sheridan has been involved in the opening of other outlets, the latest being Dishes in Prestatyn, Wales. Some of these new openings are casual spots, with a few focusing on sharing plates. Restaurant 8, though, marks the chef’s homecoming. He combines elevated dining and convivial interaction with the kitchen, and connects with the city through the industrial-chic décor and the use of regional ingredients.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at 8 by Andrew Sheridan, 16 Cook Street Liverpool L2 9RF, call 0151 559 0397 or visit the restaurant’s website here.

Trivet, the two Michelin-starred restaurant from chef Jonny Lake and master sommelier Isa Bal, is striving to set a new standard for hospitality. Its seasonal à la carte, as well as the more casual lunch offer, can also be enjoyed on the terrace or at the bar – a relaxed setting that suits the season.

This summer, guests can explore a menu that champions seasonal ingredients without the constraints of a set tasting format. Dishes showcase this ethos, beginning with snacks and starters such as Hot Tongue Bun and Cornish Wild Sea Bass Crudo, moving through mains like Cornish Plaice with Crab Meat, Tomato, Courgette and Sea Aster and Roast Lamb Rump with Broad Beans, New Potatoes and Wild Garlic, before finishing with dessert: Orange Cake, an homage to chef Jean-François Piège, served with citrus compote and saffron gelato. Each can be paired with selections from Trivet’s remarkable 450-strong wine list, curated with the same spirit of curiosity and precision that defines the food.

Since opening in 2019, the restaurant has quickly made its mark. It earned its first star from the red guide in 2022 and a second in 2024 – a testament to the craft and vision of Lake and Bal. Trivet’s name – borrowed from the iron tripod used in cooking traditions around the world – reflects their philosophy of balance between kitchen, cellar and bar. With a 45-cover dining room, 25-seat terrace, a 20-seat standalone bar and The Mustard Room for private dining, it has become a fixture for both locals and destination diners.

And in a nod to hospitality at its most generous, Trivet now opens on Monday evenings with a special menu designed for convivial simplicity. Bottles from the cellar are offered at near-retail prices, alongside a more relaxed food selection – the perfect way to start the week over great wine and conversation, without formality. Walk-ins are welcome at the bar and terrace, bringing a level of dining often reserved for the few within easier reach.

Food Desk
Photos: Filippo L’Astorina, Olivia Barker and Trivet

To book a table at Trivet, 36 Snowsfields London SE1 3SU, call 020 3141 8670 or visit their website here.

The meal began with a delicate Welsh Laverbread Biscuit, a crisp seaweed base topped with crème fraîche. Light and quietly elegant, it set the tone for what was to come. Members of staff then came to present the first of many drink pairings: the Gusbourne 2019 white sparkling was soft and an excellent match for any dish, especially the second course – a carefully curated, beautifully presented selection of oysters. One was simple yet fresh, one came with chive and pickle, and then there was the crème fraîche-dressed, torched Sussex do’ya, which was deemed the star of the show.

Chalk Stream Trout Tartare with Soy, Keta Caviar and Nori quickly followed and was paired with Chapel Down’s Kit’s Coty 2022 chardonnay, which added a greatly appreciated, luxuriously spiced note to the smooth, buttery trout. Devon Diver Scallop Crudo with Smoked Dashi and Yoghurt complimented the trout wonderfully, and when the chef explained that one man deep-dived for each and every scallop to ensure perfection, the table could taste it. A flavourful non-alcoholic, sparkling tea-based Saicho Darjeeling matched the sweet aftertaste of the dish exceptionally well.

The Sourdough Glazed Lobster with radish, rosemary and buttermilk slaw joined the torched do’ya oyster as a crowd favourite, with each guest trying to ration bites to the best of their abilities. The accompanying Gusbourne Rosé 2020 suggested Faber and Holborn Dining Room are incapable of choosing a beverage pairing that is anything less than magnificent. Alongside the lobster, the Dorset Devilled Crab with Aged Cheddar Biscuit was one of the more substantial courses, with the sharpness of the cheese cutting through the crab’s richness and subtly piquant flavour. The John Dory with Smoked Eel and Broad Bean followed, rounding off the savoury dishes on a strong note.

To close, a bright West Country Belle cocktail – a twist on a Pink Lady, made with gin and grenadine – was served alongside brown butter madeleines with dark chocolate. It was a satisfying finish that cleansed the palate and left diners quietly reflecting on the highlights of the evening.

While fine dining often comes with a sense of formality, which the venue graciously delivered, both the Faber team and Holborn Dining Room staff made sure guests felt completely at ease. Friendly banter accompanied each serving and any question was answered with gusto and a smile. Both the hosts and their visiting stars were extremely knowledgeable about one another’s crafts, whether explaining the reason why each British wine was chosen or why a course stood out on its own. Although they are collaborating for only three months, it feels as though the two have admired one another for years.

There’s no doubt Faber will continue to showcase the depth and quality of British seafood – a reminder that the UK’s coastal produce can easily hold its own on the world stage. And in Holborn Dining Room, they’ve found an ideal partner for the occasion.

Taryn Crowley

The Seafood Counter by Faber is at Holborn Dining Room, 252 High Holborn Rosewood London WC1V 7EN, until 14^th September 2025. For further information or to book a table call  020 3747 8633 or visit the restaurant’s website here.

The interior design follows that of the other venues by the Scottish-born chef: contemporary edgy artwork, a predilection for waxed wood, dried flowers as centrepieces and lining the walls. The armchairs upholstered in faded tartan and leather are a plus, as is the unique stoneware. The dining room, distanced by the beer counter, is full to capacity with first-time visitors and regulars alike. Still, it exudes relaxed vibes.

The cuisine bears the signature of Handling, obviously recognisable in his classic dishes Mother and the moreish Cheese Doughnuts. However, the menu is permeated by the creativity and passion of co-proprietors Steven Kerr and Jonny McNeil.

Handling’s cuisine focuses on the flavour profile of the ingredients as they are, carefully crafted but subjected to the least amount of elaboration. One can go for a tasting menu, where portions are halved but a longer set selection of courses is on offer. Alternatively, the à la carte allows one to enjoy more generous servings and choose according to the appetite and mood. In our case, for example, the wintry morning demanded a comforting and delicious soup of the day, which was carrot-based, smooth and earthy. The other pick from the small plates section was the Haggis Scotch Egg, an opulent take on the traditional recipe, with additional tanginess from the tartare sauce. This first round was anticipated by a few snacks, among which the aforementioned Cheese Doughnuts – with an overloaded dusting of grated parmesan, the Bread with Chicken Butter, and the Black Pudding and Apple Bon Bons which consists of five small meaty bites – a must-try!

The venison is a highlight from the large plates: tenderly cooked, virtually fat free, laid on fermented turnip and topped by a few lingonberries. It’s the perfect gourmet pick, and fantastic with the pairing of a Nebbiolo, the 2020 Nadia Curto from Le Langhe. The corn-fed Chicken is another tasty option, and, although some more of the asparagus and wild garlic could have enriched the dish, any of the green sides can provide the necessary vegetable intake. Classics such as Fish and Chips, Pie of the Day and Mac and Cheese, are also part of the menu, and, as we hear, the go-to choices of returning guests.

We finished off with a Blackberry Pavlova, dainty at first sight with a little purple tinge and flowers. Cracking the delicate meringue shell, there was a gratifying basil and blackberry jam to scoop up to the last drop.

With access to excellent producers, rooms available upstairs for a prolonged stay, and a food menu that branches off into elevated pub offerings, The Loch & The Tyne offers a complete experience that takes one back to a relaxed and relishing mode of eating out. A recently opened sister gastropub, The Tartan Fox in Cornwall, is a testament to the team’s success.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at The Loch & The Tyne by Adam Handling, 10 Crimp Hill Old Windsor Berkshire SL4 2QY, call 01753 851470 or visit their website here.

And indeed, on one of the very first sunny weekends in London, with the pristine tablecloths gleaming and the blue sky making the bright colours of the reawakening season even more impactful, we made our way to the palace (well, next door) for our lunch reservation. The Company of Cooks, with executive chef Karen Poynter, heads the kitchen, and so the culinary operations are in the capable hands of a team that has had experiences in the other Royal Palaces, for formal, intimate and large meals, both gourmet and simple. As our waiter informs us, they know well what (royal) guests like to indulge and the right portions to satisfy their appetites.

The wine list puts an equal accent on both English and European labels, starting with a bottle of Ridgeview Bloomsbury, the official wine served at the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebration in 2022, and including Borgo Del Col Alto Spumante and Norte Sur Organic Chardonnay.

We begin our meal with the London Smoked Salmon, plated as delicate roses, which proves to be as tasty as it is pretty. The Prawn and Avocado Cocktail is a meaty choice glass, though the Bloody Mary dressing risks overpowering the other ingredients, it still gives to the glass an unusual kick.

Moving to the mains, the Courgette Risotto is a generous and enjoyable course that also maintains a certain lightness in every bite. The type of grains used are certified gluten-free, with the vegan feta substituting the dairy element, and the toasted seeds adding a subtle hint of crunch. It’s a dish for all, perfectly expressing the restaurant’s intention to tastefully cater for everyone with the same menu, regardless of allergens, and to the guest’s full satisfaction. The Palace Pie is a more filling option, prepared with a luscious minced mix of braisd lamb shoulder and beef rib, topped with Somerset cheddar mash.

The presentation of the desserts reflects the precision of the onset. The Victoria’s Trifle arrives under a glass bell that captures for a few more seconds – before letting it dissolve into the air – a wisp of smoke, imparting a faint essence of torched wood. The slightly gelatinous consistency of the three layers makes up for the usual solid perception of this type of pudding. The signature dish The Orange delivers zesty tones with its sorbet and citrus salad, softened by the chocolate spongy crumble on the side.

Tantalised throughout our lunch by the nearby tables ordering the sweet and sour multi-tiered afternoon tea, we finish with a pick from the double-page tea list. Aromatic, gentle, and classic, all the blends are supplied by Hope & Glory. Our Organic Red Velvet bears a flushed red colour, its intense hue yielding in an exquisite berry-infused sip – it proves why The Orangery can be considered an institution among tea houses.

Cristiana Ferrauti
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To book a table at The Orangery, Kensington Palace Gardens London W8 4PX, call 020 3206 7780 or visit the restaurant’s website here.

As we approach the station, the salty sea air greets us, accompanied by a fresh breeze and the cries of seagulls piercing through the humidity. A quick ferry ride to the other side of the harbour brings us to Haslar Marina, where among elegant yachts and British Navy heavyweights is The Lightship – a high-end floating restaurant that deserves to be a destination spot.

The venue, a transformed historic 1940s ex-Trinity House light vessel, has been lovingly restored yet retains the spirit of its era. It gently rocks on the water whenever another cruise liner passes by. The mid-deck is a charming, intimate space with an à la carte menu, live music, and an extensive wine list. Meanwhile, the top deck provides panoramic views of the harbour, the slender, sardine-like Spinnaker Tower, and the old medieval town where one of the Victorian era’s greatest novelists was born.

Guests can relax and enjoy cocktails and fresh oysters without choosing between the two decks. You can watch the red sun dissolve into the water’s surface while sipping a strawberry whisky sour on the top deck, then head downstairs to enjoy the sounds of a beautiful woman in a sparkling dress singing into a vintage jazz microphone.

The mid-deck restaurant has an ever-changing seasonal menu designed by chef patron Jamie Fegan, inspired by The Lightship’s surroundings. They use fresh, locally caught fish, shellfish, and seasonal produce. No, they won’t bring you heirloom tomatoes with a drizzle of oil on them, but the menu showcases dishes that let the ingredients speak for themselves: South Coast Halibut with Clams, Lardon & Saffron Cream, Fruit de Mer with Lobster, Langoustines, King Prawns, Oysters, Smoked Salmon & Cockles and Lobster Frites with Hollandaise.

Some courses follow the well-established trend of reinventing classics in a contemporary style. Take the Squid Carbonara: it replaces pasta with squid for a simple yet exciting twist, particularly when paired with Terra de Lobos Sauvignon Blanc. South Coast Scallop with an Angel Hair Filo and Lobster Bisque is angelically delicate, moderately crunchy and harmonic when paired with Ashling Park Still Rosé. British Pork with Nectarine, Cider Cream and Rosti is not mindblowing, but does it have to be? It is soft, delicately sweet and goes perfectly with Bianai Blanco Rioja 2022. The Lightship also boasts an impressive range of drinks from local producers, including English sparkling wine from The Grange, a range of locally produced wines from Ashling Park Estate, Mermaid Gin, Solent Spirit rum and, of course, beer. After a couple of glasses, you might notice the rocking of the ship a bit more.

If you decide to stay overnight, The Creek in Portsmouth Harbour has cosy yet luxurious rooms with views of the bay and the Hampshire coastline. Have dinner at the Lightship, and then take a short walk to your hotel. The path winds past rows of yachts swaying gently on the water. Under the moonlit sky, the curved Spinnaker Tower casts its glow across the bay, and the primal, wonderfully dark aroma of the sea, shells, and driftwood follows you everywhere while you walk to your room on the wooden gangway. 

Visit Portsmouth for the first time or rediscover it through the Lightship – a unique, straightforward, and genuine experience that celebrates the area’s maritime heritage with authenticity and charm.

Elizaveta Kolesova

For further information and to book a table visit The Lightship website here.